ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTOR
RESOURCES
BITS AND BOBS YOU MIGHT FIND USEFUL
This is a page full of helpful information to support you to gain your Rock Climbing Instructor Award. Do pop back regularly as I will add new information and interesting links that I find.
ANCHORS
When building an anchor always try to belay where you can see your 2nd. When building anchors, "big is best", unless it's a huge non-moving block, then a minimum of 2 pieces of gear must be used to construct an anchor.
Use a principle like IDEAS to build an anchor:
INDEPENDENT
if one fails, it won't shock load the other parts of the system.
DIRECTION
of the climber
EQUALIZED
tension on all strands of the sling or rope
ANGLE
ideally no more than 60' but max 90'
SOLID
solid gear, solid rock and screwgates
Check and double check before you commit anyone to a system.
Ensure you consider how to inform/teach people how to abseil/belay etc efficiently.
Use a simple principle like IDEAS
Introduce
Demonstrate
Explain
Activity
Summarise
Think about how you do it and then create a simple set of instructions for a beginner to follow .
EXPERIENCE
The more people you can observe/work with, the more "tools" you will have for working with a wide range of people. Again, when you go climbing (indoors or outdoors) think about how you're moving and why and how can you impart that skill.
Try to manage sessions in a fun and engaging manner.
Remember, as a Rock Climbing Instructor, it’s not just about bottom roping and abseiling.....
GROUP BELAY SYSTEMS
When creating a group system, always try to bring the rigging rope to 2 strands using the overhand knot or sling to do this (left), which are then easier to tension for a top rope, bottom rope or group abseil. Also, the “bunny ears” knot can then be used effectively in a top rope (right) and group abseil (far right). Keep every system simple.
A bottom rope system traditionally uses 2 karabiners, however the Fig 8 does an equally if not better job as it has no moving parts and will take more 'wear & tear'.
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Ensure you protect yourself appropriately when working near an edge.
SOME USEFUL KNOTS AND TIPS!
Rock Climbing Instructor Knots
How to tie a One Handed Clovehitch
How to tie a One Handed Clovehitch
How to tie a one handed Italian Hitch
Sport Climbing
Using a cowtail at the top of a sport route
Using a cowtail at the top of a sport route
How to tie a larksfoot
Using quickdraws at the top of a sport route
Climbing knots
How to adjust a clove hitch
How to adjust a clove hitch
How to tie a Clovehitch
How to tie a Bowline
All things Anchors
Clip and screw
Clip and screw
IDEAS
Using a combination of rope and sling to 2 anchor points
Using less sling to 2 anchor points
Using the rope with 2 anchor points
Using the rope to 3 anchor points
Using less rope with 2 anchor points
Using a sling to 3 anchor points
Using a sling with 2 anchor points
ADVICE
​I've written a number articles and recorded some webinars about becoming a Rock Climbing Instructor and the range of skills needed, many of these we discussed on the training course, click on the links to read and watch....
BALANCE
Vertical posture is the only one that is naturally balanced and when the body is vertical, gravity forces your weight, straight down onto your feet which is best for maximum contact
Keep arms at shoulder height to keep you in balance, (this will change on steeper rock) and therefore you will have to take smaller steps which are more efficient than large strides
Keeping your weight over your foot creates a ‘base of support’
FOOT
WORK
People don’t trust their feet! Allow folk to explore the different parts of the foot that can be used for example
-
the inside edge
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the outside edge
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the toes
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SOME USEFUL READING AND WEBSITES....
MOUNTAIN TRAINING
PUBLICATIONS
SOME GOOD BOOKS
MOUNTAINEERING
COUNCILS
BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL PUBLICATIONS
USEFUL APPS
DIGITAL LOGBOOK
Mountain Training has a Youtube channel with a number of good videos
including a series on the Digital Logbook