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Gear placements


Nuts, Cams, Torques, Offsets, Stakes? Paul talks us through what to use and where!

Nut

Look for flared cracks, like a ‘V’

Minimally you need contact at the top and bottom of the concave side and 1 solid contact on the convex side

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact too

Nuts can be placed sideways

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact to

Cams

These work well in a multitude of cracks, horizontal breaks, but anything that’s parallel rather than flared is where they excel.

The cam should be placed halfway open

It needs to be in the direction of the potential fall or climber

There should be equal loading on all cams

There should be symmetry on all the cams

Torque Nuts / Hexs

These torque superbly well into flared cracks.

There is 1 large surface area, try to place that first.

Minimally you need contact at the top and bottom of the large surface area and 1 solid contact on the opposite side

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact too

They will lift out easily so need to be bedded in well

They can be placed sideways too

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact too

They will lift out easily so need to be bedded in well

Alloy Offsets

Useful for flared cracks where normal nuts don’t sit particularly well

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact too

Using Fixed gear

Stakes

Check the stability of the stake and that there is nothing that will damage your kit on it

Using a sling clove hitch to it, take a strand around the back of the stake, this will ‘lock’ the knot

The clove hitch should be as low as you can get it on the stake

#RockClimbing

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