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Gear placements

July 7, 2017

 

Nuts, Cams, Torques, Offsets, Stakes? Paul talks us through what to use and where!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nut

Look for flared cracks, like a ‘V’

Minimally you need contact at the top and bottom of the concave side and 1 solid contact on the convex side

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact too

 

Nuts can be placed sideways

Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

Make sure you have depth of contact to

 

     

     

    Cams

     

    These work well in a multitude of cracks, horizontal breaks, but anything that’s parallel rather than flared is where they excel.

    The cam should be placed halfway open

    It needs to be in the direction of the potential fall or climber

    There should be equal loading on all cams

    There should be symmetry on all the cams

     

     

    Torque Nuts / Hexs

     

    These torque superbly well into flared cracks.

    There is 1 large surface area, try to place that first.

    Minimally you need contact at the top and bottom of the large surface area and 1 solid contact on the opposite side

    Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

    Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

    Make sure you have depth of contact too

    They will lift out easily so need to be bedded in well

     

    They can be placed sideways too

    Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

    Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

    Make sure you have depth of contact too

    They will lift out easily so need to be bedded in well

     

    Alloy Offsets

     

    Useful for flared cracks where normal nuts don’t sit particularly well

    Ideally you want as much metal in contact with the rock that is possible

    Go up and down in the sizes to get the ‘sweet’ placement

    Make sure you have depth of contact too

     

     

     

    Using Fixed gear

    Stakes

    Check the stability of the stake and that there is nothing that will damage your kit on it

    Using a sling clove hitch to it, take a strand around the back of the stake, this will ‘lock’ the knot

    The clove hitch should be as low as you can get it on the stake

     

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    LLANBERIS, SNOWDONIA

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